Cellars, Cross-contamination, and Fermentation Vessels! (Pliny the Elder 14.49[27])

Magna et collecto iam vino differentia in caelo. circa alpes ligneis vasis condunt tectisque cingunt atque etiam hieme gelida ignibus rigorem arcent. rarum dictu, sed aliquando visum, ruptis vasis stetere glaciatae moles, prodigii modo, quoniam vini natura non gelascit; alias ad frigus stupet tantum. mitiores plagae doliis condunt infodiuntque terrae tota aut ad portionem situs. ita caelum prohibent, alibi vero inpositis tectis arcent, traduntque et haec praecepta: latus cellae vinariae aut certe fenestras obverti in aquilonem oportere vel utique in exortum aequinoctialem. sterculinia et arborum radices procul abesse omniaque odoris evitandi, facillimo in vina transitu, ficos utique et caprificos; doliis etiam intervalla dari, ne inter sese vitia serpant contagione vini semper ocissima. quin et figuras referre; ventriosa ac patula minus utilia.

And there are many and different methods for storing wines in a cellar. In the Alps, they put [the wine] in wooden vases and put hoops around; in the winter they keep away the freeze by using fires. It is rare, but I have seen it on occasion: an icy bulk [of wine] protruding from burst vessels – indeed, it is an ominous thing, since by its very nature wine does not freeze. Typically, it mellows in such cold.

In milder climates, they put wine in clay vessels [dolia] that are buried in the ground – either entirely or in part. Other people forgo the cellar altogether, or they put [the wine] in covered places and abide by the following rules of thumb:

At the side of the wine-cellar, do not have windows either directed towards the north-wind or, certainly, the east. [The wine] must also be kept away from dung piles, the roots of trees, especially fig trees, and all things emitting an odor, because [the smells are] easily picked up by the wine. Also, it is best to leave space between the dolia so that no infection spreads between them – wine is always apt to become quickly infected. Let’s turn back to the shape of the vessels: having a broad belly and standing wide open [at the top] is not a useful design.

Commentary
This passage describes the treatment of wine, not beer, but, as I previously argued, an examination of the more numerous wine-related texts can provide insight into the variety of methods, approaches, and ingredients that ancient people practiced for fermented beverages. This week, Pliny the Elder describes wine cellars. Anyone with a beer cellar or basement fermentation chamber can certainly relate to some of Pliny’s #wineproblems.

First, wine could be aged or stored for a period of time. Just don’t store it in areas that are too cold – you might end up with an eis-wine that is far more eis than wine.

Others choose to store their wines in ceramic vessels (dolia) buried in the ground. When I move out of my apartment, I will be interested to test this method. I imagine it will help to maintain the temperature of beer.

The final paragraph (of the translation) is particularly insightful. It makes it clear that the ancients were aware of contamination and thought it best to separate fermenting liquids. Such a concern was likely among those Celts who chose to age their beers (Spanish aged beer). Pliny also takes up the drum that I have been beating for years: keep fermented beverages away from shit-hills!

Finally, the Roman oenologists would likely have likely been approving of our modern conical fermenters (with lids).

Author’s Note
Pliny the Elder (23-79 CE)

Image Source
WikimediaCommons. Dolia from Villa Rustica, Boscoreale (IT). AlMare

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